The Detouring Doctor

Aswan is a pleasant small city situated far upstream in the Nile along one of the cataracts. It is as far south as it gets for Egypt. Next stop down is Wadi Halfa in upper Sudan. Being the gateway to Africa the people here are more Nubian, dark skinned African people.

The British built what is now referred to as the Low Dam in 1902 to regulate the flow of the Nile and also provide hydroelectricity. Subsequently between 1960 and 1970 the high dam was constructed, also known as the Nasser dam. The massive Lake Nasser created behind it is one of the largest man made lakes on the planet.

The pretty little Philae temple was built 2500 years ago. Dedicated to the goddess Isis it was partially submerged by the rising waters of Lake Nasser and a UN sponsored project undertook to rescue it. In the mid 60s a retaining dam was built around it and the whole temple was dismantled and rebuilt on a neighbouring island.

Aswan has abundant supplies of good quality pink and black granite. The ancient Egyptians carved out massive lumps of rock with primitive hammers and chisels for their obelisks and statues and floated them on barges 100s of kilometres down the Nile. The unfinished obelisk in the quarry has provided a wealth of information about the way the ancient Egyptians accomplished the Herculean tasks.

A relaxing Felucca boat trip up the Nile completes the afternoon.

Horus is the “boy wonder” of the ancient Egyptian’s deity pantheon. King and Queen of the gods were Osiris and Isis respectively. One day the Osiris’ evil brother Seth in an attempt to further his position killed Osiris and chopped his body into 42 pieces scattering the pieces in each of Egypt’s provinces. His wife Isis managed to retrieve the pieces and reassemble Osiris. They then proceeded to mate and she gave birth to the Falcon god Horus.

Tasked to avenge his father Horus fought his uncle, Seth multiple times over the next 80 years before finally succeeding and condemning him to the underworld.

Horus came to represent power and the early pharaohs became the manifestation of Horus on earth. He appears with great regularity in carvings and tomb art typically bestowing his holy powers on the pharaoh.

We are on the Nile Cruise now and our first stop is Edfu to see one of the best preserved Ptolemaic temples dedicated to Horus. Built between 237BC and 57 BC its walls depict scenes from the battle between Horus and Seth.

That afternoon near sunset we stop at a bend in the Nile, Kom Ombo, where historically there have been large concentrations of crocodiles taking advantage of sluggish waters and abundant fish. Dedicated to both Horus and the crocodile god, Sobek this pretty little 2000 year old temple is famous for the mummification of crocodiles.

That night on the boat was an Egyptian dress up affair.

November 1922 and British archeologist Howard Carter is peering into the newly discovered and excavated tomb. He is quoted as saying, “I see wonderful things, strange animals, statues and gold—everywhere the glint of gold!” He has accidentally stumbled on the only royal tomb ever discovered in an intact state. The 18th dynasty boy king Tutankhamun is catapulted into fame as a 20th century cultural icon.

The Valley of the Kings, Queens and Nobles is a massive funerary complex dating back 34 centuries on the west bank of the Nile, opposite Luxor, formerly known as Thebes. To date 63 pharaoh’s tombs have been uncovered all dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties. Excavation is ongoing and the most recent discovery was in 2005. Visiting the valley today the admission ticket allows entry into 3 tombs but some require an additional payment. It is those tombs that are more worthwhile visiting as most tourists crowd into the basic tombs and the more expensive tombs make for a more intimate experience. We visit 5 tombs in all.

Queen Hatshepsut assumed the throne when her husband Amenhotep 11 died. Initially as  Regent for her young son who would eventually become Amenhotep 111 but then in her own right. She wore mens clothing and even donned the traditional false beard to enhance her acceptance in the traditionally male only role. She has a tomb in the valley of the kings but also built a massive temple just outside the valley known as Deir al Bahari.

We are treated to the much quieter Valley of the Queens and 3 temples there.

Finally a photostop at the Colossi of Memnon. Built 34 centuries ago these 18 meter high statues are of Amenhotep 111.

On our boat we finally set sail.

The ancient Egyptians viewed the sun as a model of daily existence and life. Rising in the east they built cities and temples on the side of the east side of the north – south flowing Nile river. This was the side of the living. The west side is the side for the dead and afterlife, where the sun sets.

The temple at Karnak, in Luxor, is the second largest in the world after Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Built between 2055 BC and 100 AD it is dedicated to Amun Ra, the sun god. It was added to by 30 different pharoahs in that time. The centrepiece is the massive hypostyle hall. It is a “forest” of 134  pillars standing 20 metres tall.

The smaller Luxor temple is connected to Karnak by a 3km road lined with sphinxes. It was built in 1400 BC and smaller than Karnak. It was dedicated to the rejuvenation of kingship and is believed to be the site where many of the pharoahs of Egypt were crowned.

A “red eye” 2:30 am start for the 6 am flight from Cairo to Luxor has us arriving in Luxor around &:30 am a bit worse for wear. We are bundled into a minibus for the 1 hour drive to Dendera.

Completed around 360 BC this is one of the best preserved temples in Egypt particularly the artwork inside. It is dedicated to the goddess Hathor. Depicted as a cow, often a woman with cow ears she is the goddess of goodness, namely love, beauty, music, joy and motherhood. She is said to have breast fed Horus, the Falcon god and son of the supreme deities Isis and Osiris. She went on to marry Horus and they had two children together.

We enjoy a quiet afternoon at our Winter Palace Hotel. Built in 1886 this is one of the iconic hotels of the world and a haven of old world luxury.

Late afternoon stroll along the corniche yielded some views of the Luxor temple and a sunset over the Nile.

Which country has the most pyramids? No it is not Egypt which tops out at 118, it’s Sudan with 255. Nonetheless, having been to both countries Egypt is synonymous with pyramids and it has the oldest and largest in the world.

Our day begins at Saqqara at the Step pyramid of the pharoah Djoser. Built in the 27th century BC ( a staggering 48 centuries ago!) it is the oldest standing stone structure on the planet. Built as 6 mastabas (tombs) atop of each other it is the prototype of subsequent pyramids. It is surrounded by a funerary temple and other less well preserved pyramids. Wandering through these structures with ancient frescos depicting the royals buried there and the lifestyles of the average people in those times brings memories flooding back from my trip through Egypt in 1982.

Nearby is the Serapeum necropolis dedicated to sacred Apis bulls. It is an underground chamber with 24 massive sarcophagi weighing up to 62 tons. How the ancient Egyptians in 1400 BC moved these massive structures underground is still a mystery.

Finally for the day we have left the best till last. The pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx are one of the most recognisable structures in the world. Built in 2500 BC the great pyramid of Cheops is the largest in the world. This is my third visit to Giza and it does not fail to blow me away.

I have not been to this part of Egypt before. My prime motivation was to go to the site of the Lighthouse of Pharos, one of the seven ancient wonders of the world.

This is not an unattractive city albeit with the typical Egyptian overlays of dirt, rundown buildings and chaotic noisy traffic. The Mediterranean defines this city which is very different from the rest of Egypt which is Nilecentric.

Our accommodation is one of the highlights. For a modest price we are staying in a luxurious piece of history, the Metropole. Built in 1902. We are in a suite overlooking the Corniche where the Greek poet Constantine Cavafy lived and wrote.

The lighthouse at Pharos was destroyed in an earthquake. Its remains are on the sea floor and subject to underwater archeological research which is quite amazing. The Qaitbay citadel was erected over the site in the 15th century in many cases using stones from the light house. Today it makes for a pleasant excursion.

We take a horse and carriage ride back to the city.

Gotta catch them all!

Number 7 of the seven ancient wonders of the world. Alexandria and the Lighthouse of Pharos.

Constructed during the rule of Ptolemy II Philadelphus (280-247 BC), the most famous lighthouse stood tall at about three hundred and fifty feet on Pharos island in the Alexandria harbor of ancient Egypt.

Sostratus of Cnidus was the mastermind behind the design, featuring a burning fire atop a cylindrical tower, an octagonal middle, and a square base.

However, the lighthouse gradually fell into disrepair following three earthquakes between 965 and 1323 AD.

Today the lighthouse is underwater in Alexandria’s harbour. The citadel of Qaitbay now sits where the lighthouse stood.

A colossal forty-foot-tall gold and ivory statue of Zeus once graced a temple in Olympia, Greece. It was crafted to compete with those in Athens. The eleventh-century Byzantine historian Georgios Kedrenos  noted that the statue was carried off to Constantinople, where it was destroyed in the great fire of the Palace of Lausus in 475 AD.

Greek sun god Helios, was an impressive engineering marvel that graced the harbor of the Greek island of Rhodes.

A significant moment in its history occurred in 226 BC, when an earthquake struck, causing the colossal statue to collapse at its knees after having stood proudly for fifty-four years.

Dedicated to Artemis, the Greek goddess of chastity, hunting, wild animals, forests, and fertility, this wonder experienced a turbulent history, being constructed and demolished three times.

First, it fell victim to Herostratus, seeking fame. Then, the Goths, fleeing from the Romans, wrecked it while passing through. Its final demise occurred in 401 AD when a Christian mob tore it down, leaving only foundations and a solitary column still visible today.

The Hanging Gardens of Babylon said to feature intricate terraces, stunning water elements, and floating plants, are believed to have existed around 600 BC. Legend has it that they were situated roughly fifty miles south of present-day Baghdad in Iraq.

However, historical records of the gardens are solely found in ancient tales. One story holds that Babylonian Emperor Nebuchadnezzar built the gardens for his wife, Amyitis.

If these gardens did indeed exist, they would have met their end when the Achaemenid Empire conquered Babylon in 539 BC.

Built in 350 BC as a tomb for Mausolus, the ruler of Caria in ancient Asia Minor, this structure was so remarkable that it gave rise to the term “mausoleum,” now commonly used for significant funeral monuments.

The mausoleum met its end due to a series of earthquakes between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries. It was the last of the six ancient wonders to succumb to destruction.

Reflections on the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, officially abbreviated as KSA. As a teenager I read about Mecca, the forbidden city and how in the 19th century British explorer Richard Burton risked death masquerading as a Muslim to get there. Of course the forbidden, in a closed country always invites curiosity.

Soon after graduating as a doctor I considered applying to work in Saudi. Wages were generous and no taxation appealed to me but my life partner declared it as Haram! Decades later I am here as a tourist just a handful of years after it has opened up and I believe that now is the sweet spot.

The king has decreed that by 2030 the kingdom will be transformed into an open fair society and tourism is set to overtake oil revenues as the world turns away from fossil fuels. Riyadh Air based out Riyadh airport is aggressively building up to challenge Qatar and Emirates. The world expo is here in 2030 and the FIFA world cup in 2034. The latter event is set to lead to relaxation of the ban around alcohol here much as it did in Qatar last time.

I anticipate that in the next decade travel here will be mainstream package tours etc, which is not the way I travel. I am pleased to have done this trip now at a time when getting around took a bit of effort. Even my life partner who was not keen on coming here was blown away by some of the scenery! I can’t see myself coming back ……..unless they open up Mecca!

Mecca is the holiest site in Islam. The prophet Mohammed (Peace be upon him) was born here and in his adult life took to meditation. It is said that Allah revealed himself to him and  bequeathed him the holy text we now know as the Koran. The religion we now know as Islam was born.

The prophet (PBUH) converted his family and a small band of followers but met with violent resistance in Mecca and was forced to flee to Medina where Islam took hold and resisted a number of attacks from Meccan forces. The prophet (PBUH) eventually prevailed  and returned to Mecca where the Kaaba   built by Ibrahim in antiquity and repurposed for pagan gods was repurposed as the holiest shrine in Islam.

Mecca is Haram (forbidden) for the non believer. Fortunately Medina, the second holiest site is not and it is replete with monuments and sites relating to the prophet’s (PBUH) life. It also houses his tomb.

The vibe here is very different. All around is a “sea” of Muslims every pilgrim/touristic site is crowded and we are the only non Muslims we see throughout our stay here. This is an international gathering. British accents abound. The people are all friendly and keen to engage. We even chat to a pale Swedish girl in a hijab here on pilgrimage.

The piece de resistance is the Masjid e Nabawi in the very centre of Medina. It is the resting place of the prophet (PBUH) and convergence point for the pilgrims. It and its massive grounds can accommodate 1 million devotees. Everything I have read before coming here said we could photograph from the outside so we have a hotel room with a view over the complex. When we actually approach the mosque I prepare to photograph from the gateway. The gateway is unguarded and we cautiously venture into the massive forecourt area. We are clearly tourists and not dressed in any Muslim garb. No one “bats an eyelid”. Magic! I absorb the atmosphere and take my fill of photos of this beautiful place. We do not, of course, attempt to go inside but I daresay that if we had bought a cheap outfit, on sale all over town here, we would have been able to wander in unchallenged and been able to take pictures. Nonetheless, I am a happy man!